Vegetable Oil - Cosmetic & Nutraceutical

Borage Oil

The star of gamma-linolenic acid - Skin anti-aging, female hormone balance, and systemic anti-inflammatory

Latin name

Borago officinalis L.

Family

Boraginaceae

History & Botany

Borage is an annual plant native to the eastern Mediterranean basin (likely Syria and Lebanon), naturalized throughout temperate Europe since antiquity. Its name comes from the Arabic abu rach (father of sweat), referring to its traditional sudorific properties. The Celts believed it gave courage to warriors: they infused its flowers in wine before battles. Dioscorides and Pliny the Elder recommended it as a euphoric, cordial, and medicinal plant.

It was in the 1980s that the exceptional gamma-linolenic acid (GLA) content of its seed oil (18 to 26%, the highest of all known vegetable oils) was discovered, propelling borage to the status of a star in anti-aging cosmetics and female nutraceuticals. It surpasses evening primrose (8-12% GLA) and black currant (15-19%), making it the most powerful plant source of GLA available.

Morphology

Robust annual plant, 30 to 80 cm tall, entirely covered with stiff white hairs. Alternate, oval, fleshy, and very hairy leaves. Star-shaped flowers with 5 bright intense blue petals, with black stamens forming a central cone. One of the brightest blue flowers in the plant kingdom. Tiny brown seeds (tetrakene) with high lipid content.

Oil extraction

Extraction by cold first pressing of the seeds, without solvents or heat. Low yield (about 15%), making it an expensive oil. Light golden-yellow color with a slight greenish tint. Refrigeration required for storage (6 to 12 months). Main producers: France, England, Germany, Canada.

Borago officinalis L.

Characteristic star-shaped blue flowers and hispid leaves

Fatty Acid Composition & Biochemistry

Organoleptic Properties

Appearance

Virgin oil

A fluid and clear oil, light, non-greasy to the touch. Rapid skin penetration. Slightly more viscous than evening primrose oil due to its higher GLA content.

Color

Fresh virgin oil

Golden yellow to yellow-green, slightly more colored than evening primrose oil. A brown-orange or cloudy color indicates advanced oxidation.

Odor

Fresh oil

Slightly vegetal and herbal, more pronounced than evening primrose oil, with a slightly fatty note. A rancid or fishy odor indicates oxidation: do not use.

Taste

Oil in solution

Slightly vegetal and somewhat bitter, with a more pronounced herbal note than evening primrose oil. Generally administered in capsules to avoid this taste for internal use.

Storage

Oxidative stability

A very fragile oil, rich in PUFAs. Mandatory refrigeration, away from light and air. Added vitamin E recommended. Shelf life: 6 to 12 months once opened.

Properties & Uses

Skin Anti-Aging & Firmness

GLA stimulates the synthesis of ceramides and hyaluronic acid in keratinocytes, restoring suppleness, hydration, and density to mature skin. Reduces dehydration wrinkles. Improves skin elasticity in 6 to 8 weeks of application. Indicated for dry, dehydrated, dull, and aging skin.

PMS & Female Hormonal Balance

The conversion of GLA into PGE1 helps regulate estrogen sensitivity and reduce PMS symptoms: mastodynia, irritability, water retention, and catamenial migraines. Complementary to evening primrose, borage is often preferred for its GLA concentration, which is twice as high.

Dermatosis & Atopic Skin

Recognized effectiveness in atopic eczema, psoriasis, and seborrheic dermatitis. GLA restores the deficient skin barrier, reduces itching, and inflammatory flare-ups. Used in topical application and orally. In pediatric dermatology, often preferred in topical application.

Systemic Anti-Inflammatory

Orally, GLA reduces markers of systemic inflammation (CRP, IL-6, TNF-α). Indicated in rheumatology: rheumatoid arthritis, inflammatory osteoarthritis. Reduces morning stiffness and joint pain after 12 weeks of supplementation.